In one van: Justin (Florida/USA
- korea). Justin is a guy full of energy, allways
positive and the pro surfer. I think there is nothing
he don t know about surfing. We put all the board
on the car. We other goes inside the other van. Genius,
TigerBull, Indra, Daren, 2 nice indonesians friends
and me. Bob Marley music. Okay. The "Transport, Transport Mister ?" are ready to take
of. The driver seems not to see the tausend motorbike,
peoples and cars coming from everywhere. He don t
pay any real attention to the roadlines that separate
one lane from the other and drive in the golden midle.
We allmost get an accident but that s okay for the
driver. He stay as relax as ever and the only reaction
he has was using the Claxon. BEEP BEEP !
Today is a free indonesian day and there not to much
trafic, thank god. Everybody goes to the temples.
- Dreamland - Justin spoke about
it and as we arrived I understood why he was so enthousiastic
about this place. The rock cliff is abrupt and about
25 m high. On the bottom the beach, few houses and
restaurant and the best thing, huge waves. A beautifull
bay.
I have a sunburn from the 4-5 hours surfing yesterday
so should I go in the water? Well the waves are big
an that will be my answer:
"I will go !" even if I m a beginner (surfing
day 5)
I
mean its a great opportunity to learn and have fun.
We eat and then ride to the ocean. I never saw such
big waves. Some seems very short but suddently grow
grow and grow....Scary but on the same time beautifull.
Normaly you should think, this guys are crazy to go
out of the sea but you should try yourself, rent a
board and go there, there were you are as close as
possible of this huge rising water.* see image
below
One wave is coming. It become big, this is my chance...I
go, its bigger, but I want to ride it...even if I
fall...I want to take a ride....paddle paddle and
up ! The wave push me and I stand on the board...fantastic
feeling...I just think about two things...having pleasure
and go out of the wave before it breaks. I m on the
top of the wave and I get an amazing acceleration
down. I m standing on the board, then I take a turn,
so naturaly as if I was a real surfer dude...the water
wall is in front of me, as big as I....Waaaaow...I
can t find words. I wish I had a camera from this
undescriptible moment. My biggest wave ever. I is
so fast, in few seconds I made 40 m maybie....As Justin
told me I jump out of the board before the wave breaks
close to the beach...Why ? Because of the rocks under
the water can break you and your board.
The after wave effect: HAPPYNESS, JOY, ADDICTION,
PADDLELING FOR THE NEXT WAVE and a big big scream.
I m proud of me. I don t know why ? I can t believe
I m here with this surfer dudes. I will catch 4 more
waves. And realy that s a lot for me. This sport is
realy worth to do. I loveeeeeee it ! I think I m addicted
now. So addicted that I don t know if I ever will
visit Bali....I just think of surf, surf and surf
more.
I ride my last wave and arrive to the beach. I m tired.
Big waves are good but when you take one and there
is a serie of 4 other big ones, that breaks, going
back to the sea is very difficult and means a lot
of paddleling. Wave break. You go back 3 meters and
paddle again 2 meters and next wave breacks...back
2 meter again......So I m tired and I decide to take
some picture. Yes thats a long time I didn t do that.
So here there are the picture of Dreamland.
Surfer, ladies in bikini, and waves. What do you need
more for today ? Sorry but no pic with me and the
waves...sniff sniff. Maybie in few years on the cover
of a surfer magazine ?
And a thx...to the great Korean team for taking me
with them here and for the fun we have together !
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