As you know I m actualy expecting
post in Puerto Montt and it didn t arrived. So after
a enjoying time in by the Osorno volcano, I decided
to move to Isla Grande de Chiloe. This Island has
some endemic species and is one of the most humid
part of the world. A contrast to Chile North wich
is the most dry part of the world. Something that
can be explained by the 4300 km long country.
From Puerto Montt I took the bus. Two hours of drive
and ferry later I arrived in Ancud in the north of
the Island. Its a quitte fisher village, with colored
wood houses. I have to mention that here every construction
is completly in wood. Each houses than has a different
wood motif that make it look different, and when you
pass some street you feel in an other yeartousend.
I spend my time walking arround, catching lezards
and drawing a little. One night in my tent I wake
up because of the dog far away in the village. They
where screaming all together. A wolfy sound. It sounds
they where about 30-50. Incredible! A dog opera in
the night. How can this people manage this all the
night ? Maybie we use to hear the car on the street
and they use to hear the dog on the street. Same level
of noise...
Well next day I went to Castro where I meet some french
people, Pauline and Clement two geologist who travel
arround in India and Southamerica for a little time.
A bus bring us to Cucao in the south-west of the island
to the national park. Together we camp close to a
beautifull lake. For dinner my cold regime of "pain
de mie with mortadela" stopped for warm
rice. Waooow. Since Bariloche I didn t had warm food.
We try to make a fire to protect us from the humid
and cold night (poor Fred who hates cold.).
Suddenly in the night, we heard a strange sound from
the forest . Again a strange sound. After the dog
from Ancud , the hunter trompette of Cucao. I took
my lantern and enter in the dark forest until I found
two Chilian guys who were playing this strange instruments.
Some sounds just like an elephant. But this was a
funny night that stoped at 4.00 in the morning. So
I just had 4 other hours to fight against the cold.
And big Fred survived.
Then we wake up and go to make a little 4 hours trail
to the national park. First you walk into a kind of
plateau with sand, stone and big big plants. Than
you have to go through the beach and walk for 1 or
2 hours (we did it in 20 minutes by hitchhiking, and
it was good because of the deep clouds. You couldn
t see more than 50 meters). You turn right in a little
way up to the little mountain, meet some horse, go
back down to an other beach, lose yourself and ask
some otoctone where it goes, by the way Clement was
half eaten by a dog, we wait 30 second in front of
a river where a bridge was broken, scream for a guy
that bring us to the other side with a kind of boat,
and payed 1000 pesos for 3 people, then few minutes
later we stopped to eat (My pain de mie with mortadela)
and saw the indigene crossing the river just by foot
in some special place. Okay we where fucked...stupid
gringos we are but funny it was (Yoda)...The force
may be with us...
Finaly we walk into the jungle into some Indiana Jones
looking galerie where you just espect a rolling ball
coming and make you flat. And wfen you did all that
you arrive in a beautiffffffffUUUUULL Robinson Crusoe
Beach. There you install your tent
On this Island you have a lot of ressource to eat.
First the Chupon. As we arrived on the beach some
indigene kids were recolting this fruits at the bottom
of some very hurting plants.We tried one and it was
very good and sweet. It is like a "figue".We
try to get some but impossible.
Then you have some seafood. Mariscos, Clement and
I went to catch some on the rocks but....I just found
two of some strange mollusque. I eat one of them.
Hard thing but not bad (ca a le gout d oursins!).
And finaly we have the last solution.Eat the food
we had. Clement and Pauline make tortellini and I
had the desert. Chocolate and then a milk with "dulce
de leche" (here they call it "manjar"...ehhehe.
Hmmmm sweet braun cream made with milk and sugar (caramel
taste).
The night ended with the companie of some Chilian
singing with wine, and a conversation with Michel
Angelo a reporter from Santiago who stopped after
25 years of writing articles to install himself in
the quite city of Cucao. Far away from the city, this
guy look like a cowboy and live from tourist that
he brings here with some of his horses.
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Les Algues.
Everywhere on the beach you can found this very strange
Algs. It looks like a amount of giant tentacle that
can be more than 2 meters long, when it came out of
the water it moves like a plastic snake. The people
here come a long way with horses and recolt this algs.
Then they take them home and let them dry. I have
to found out what they are making with them.
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