Great Ocean Road: 1.aout.2004

A journey by car out of Melbourne, with Vincent (the best guitar player I ever meet - his from spain) and 2 of his english friends + irish.
Great Ocean Road is a coastal dramatic scenery. On the picture right the 12 Apostels.

Gee Bok s phone rings. I hopen my eyes, move into the dark room and shake Gee Bok the Korean guy I met yesterday. Together we go down with our backpack. Time to check out and go for our 3 days tour with Mulgas Adventure. Few peoples are waiting outside. Some other take a early breakfast in the morning. Nobody realy know each other, and that s the funny thing about what will be a fantastic team. My face is just a face, banal, without any distinction of the tausend other backpacker that travel the in the world. Okay maybie I am the backpacker that need a Haircut. But in few days I will be special. Not only my face but all the 14 peoples that will travel with us. Each face will be printed for the eternity, each face will have a signification a story a remember, something very special for each of us.
I join the people outside and present myself. First contact. I try to remember quickly the names.
We are waiting few minutes until the first bus pick up some of us. I will be in the second bus. Our guide is coming. His name is Sean (like the 007 Sean Connery). Sean is tall, he has a good tin and he his funny. Directly he ask me if I m a crazy french. Don t know? Maybie.


The bus is ready to go. Everybody gets inside and Tracy Chapman beginn to sing. En route pour l aventure ! First thing we do is writing our names on the window. Sean, our guide, could in few second remember all of our name. Incredible. Then he explained us what we will do, and to be more clear he gave me the marker and I (the master Copilote) draw on the window the map of our next 3 days. We will travel to Uhuru, were some of us could climb it, then camp at night in swags, go on day 2 to the katja Juta, then sleep again, day 3 Kings Canyon and Camel ride.

Okay but first we need a volunter to take organise the drinks for tonight. It should be Nelly. Nelly has an IQ of 300 and her name is written Nelie! Not Nelly but Nelie. Got ya ! Weeeeeelldone. I don t know exactly how that happen but the group we had was in perfect harmony. It seems that everybody just want to have good time, just fun. Even if each of us had a complete different caracter and lifes.

Sean is cool, relax and funny. He tell us story in a very particular way, so that everybody listen to him. It seems that he read a lot about the arborigines. Surprising ! A guide that can read ? He could tell us something so serious and in the next minute come with a funny happening. I remember this time when he tell us about the SAMARAMADATAMADHHRA TA or something like this. This "Guy" was a killer, ordered to kill the bad arborigines. Nobody realy new him. The footprint who are a clear identification in the desert for the arborigine were unknow cause this Guy used feather under his foot. His knowledge about plant and animal was perfect. This guy could survived in the desert with no help. Once he get a mission, he beginn to search the thieves or murderer and when he find them he will take his time to beginn the execution. Full of tricks he beginn his execution. First he wait night, cause the aborigenes have a very deep sleep. If the murderer will be accompagned with friends he will act so discret that just the murderer will be punished. The night he will come and take one of this glue plant that are used as antiseptique on wounded people. He knew that if you put that on the eyes the effect will be temporarty blindness. And so he proced, put few drop on the murderers eyes and on the morning when this one will oppen the eyes and with his hand go on the eyes like everybody does after a good night, he will become blind. The compagnon at this point will become afraid. At this moment they will know that the SMAMAMANTATRATATBLABLA will be here, and that the blind men did something bad. Affraid they will escape, run as far as they can. The murderer will be conscient that his time has come and that the punishment for his crime is ready to beginn. What can he do ? Run for his life? He could but were to go in the big Australian desert ? The SAMABLABLA will approach and the blind men will hear this lower voice (comment on dit chuchotter? ):
- I know what you did ! I know that you kill someone ! I know that you didn t respect the rules ! I will kill you.
And he will wait before killing his men, wait that the men will be so scared and affraid that the death will be welcome.
That the kind of story that Sean told us. He has tausend of them and the way he tell them are just amazing, even if my english is so bad I could realy understand everything.

Uhuru
Ups we arrived. The Uhuru. The biggest monolith on earth. Tinted with a red color because of a high amount of iron. This rock is part of the aborigene story and culture. The white mens came here with a lot of difficulties. You can imagine what it was without real knowledge of the land, without modern equipment to survive in the huge desert. The secret of life was in the hand of the indigene and the white man who did cross all the ocean and study mathematic, astronomie, science, language, biologie, plylosophie or whatever hadn t a big chance of surviving here.
Climb or not ?
The culture of the aborigine is deep and at this time still a secret. Know we are here in front of this monolithe. What should we do ? Climb it or not ? Some people try to respect they culture and say not to climb it. But what is the point ? If you realy want to help the aboriginal than do it by doing something not by not doing something. Do I help a homeless if I close my eyes, or do I help him if I speak with him and try to find out what he realy need. I m fascinated with the mundial phenomenon of Indigene culture and their death. The modern people think to have all what they need. But in fact they don t. Most of us do what the society ask to do. Most of us work hard and miss to enjoy their life. Some of us then think, I can t do this, I can t do that, I m not able to. In difference the indigene volks built their society on surviving. All the tradition have to help the society to survive. Its not a matter of power. It s not a matter to be reach. Its a matter to eat, to sleep and to have family. If they have that they are happy and dont search for more and more. They are some volks in the world that never new what misery meens until the white men came. They ever work with the nature and not against because destruction of nature will be their own destriction. I hope everything will once change and that culture will be the second priority after the environment. Well so the question is ? Should I climb the rock or not ? For the aborigene, if you will die on climbing it, this will mean that your spirit will be here forever. Our stranger spirit will stay on the rock and never get back to our home. And the aborigines realy don t want this. Why should I die here ? Well that the question that the 37 peoples who left their life here would have asked ? The rock is a mass and climbing it must be do with some concentration. A wrong step and it is a long fall to the floor. Nothing can stop you beetwen. The gravity will know be against you and ....POUUUFFF. Your dead.
And your spirit stay here. No good, no good.
I, well I decided to climb. I don t feel not respecting the aborigine by doing this. As I say, help the aborigines instead of ingnoring them. Try to understand them. Second point, I have a kind of philosophy with the natural beauties of the world. The earth created fantastic landscape and the human sometime want that for him. Why ? Instead of respecting it, the human will see profit in it, he will put a fense, on the fense he will put a sign and on the sign he will put a fees. I realy hate that. Natural wonder should be respect as it and as part of the world heritage, and should be free. Of course with the condition that people respect it.
Third thing, the rules. The parc instore some advice in the cultural center. Do not climb. Do not take photos. Do not this do not that. But what do I see in the cultural center, million of pictures...and hundret of artwork. Some very bad. I don t realy think that this is a good way to preserve the culture, respect the people.
4 point. What about the base walk. He has a lot of different sacred places. Can realy everybody go to a womans sacred place? Even a man? Can everybody go to a men sacred place? Even a women ?.
I Climb it !
So Julie, GeeBok, Mike and me begin the climb. Whatever ther reason they have, we have fun. The air is hot, the wall is sharp and a metal chain help up in case of freefall. 25 minutes, that the time to reach the first 1/3 of the rock. Imagine that a Kiwi guy did it in 11 minutes, and I not even sure if it was the 1/3 or the hole way up. Very bizarre this kiwis. Well after the first most difficult part, we begin to enjoy a magnificient panorama on the Olgas, Mt Connor and the salt lake. Everybody on the rock seems to be an antz and the cars on the parking are just little squareforms. Sometimes a red wall is pierced with some huge hole. In some of them water and inside a water insect that looks prehistorical.
Its amazing. I love it. After another 25 min we reach the top, a kind of trashcan is posed there. We come and look closer at it. Its a panorama indicator. Here is the north, here the west, here the Olgas etc.. and here is the ring. Yes a ring. A mini ring. The one ? Lord Of the Ring? To much sun on my head. Lets go back.
Sunset
Sean is waiting us! Like I allways do when I go down, I run. Of course this time more than other I have to be carefull. My spirit shouldn t stay here. On the way we met two older woman. Incredible power to get up here, and they did. They seems to have fun, but no WAT - ER (NewCastle prononciation). No John a oldy also, turned back, because it was to hard. They only problem was, he was carring the water and the photo, so the wemens decided to continue alone. Hey. Maybie thats why he could do it...the wemen gave him to much to carry. Hehehe. Well, we shared our water with the nice and courageous wemens.
At the parking allmost everybody is there and we go know for a little exploration with Sean and an introduction to the more or less secret story arround this place.
Then we go, go and go where everybodies go. The sunset lookout viewpoint. Its seems that something amazing will happend here. Do they wait an UFO ? Every part of the society has his place here. The big bus have built chairs and table outside, with champagne. For the other the champagne will be here but they will have to stay. Then we have the wine people and finaly the beer ones. The dresscode is also different. We are the Dirty and some are the fine peoples. Okay I exagerate. I don t care, I take a glass of wine that I will never finished because its realy a bad one, but well. I make my way out of the crowd searching for a quite place, peacefull and relaxing. I will find one. During this time my two Smart Girls that I lost when I made a quick sketch, went to the CHAMPAGNE party. And they did well...Smart girls (Julie and Nelie).
The spectacle is wonderfull, I loved it. But strange thing, everybody look at the rock witch is at the opposite of the sun. They shoot millions of photos like me, but don t turn to the sun ??? Its like the cave story. Camera Obscura. Do you know it ? 1 cavemen and 2 cavegirl are in the cave( yes two girl for one man at this time !). They are looking at a light on the wall. Suddently the men is thinking ! Were does the light come from. The two girls just think it s a nice light and they want to look at it before its gone. Then, well the the MAN turn and see a hole behind him. He put the hand between the hole and the wall, and suddently the projection on the wall disappear and get into his hand. Waooow. He tell the girls to go with him and look behind the hole where the real light come from...but the girls don t believe the man, they stay and wait that the projection begin again. The man goes out and see the true light. The light on the wall is just a projection. Camera obscura, same behaviour here in Uhuru. Funny. For those who complain that it is a men that is smarter. Sorry but I write the story. and I m a men. Maybie the women just wanted to dream and the men wanted more...Who knows? Who cares ?

Well after this wonderfull scenery, we met to the bus and eat what Sean prepared. Food is welcome after the big climb.Everybody is happy especialy my two smart champagne girls ! The night fall and the crowded parking is now almost empty. Two bus are here. And the two driver know each other well. Each driver has a team and each team naturaly find an "nice Enemi". The fun beginn and transform fast into a big serie of battle and revanche. We are driving arround the bus of our enemy, then suddently a projection of a liquid thing cover all the window. Its uggly. Its beeeerrrrkkkk. Its yellow, its kind of gelle. Gee Bok and me receive few drops. But Sean and the windows stoped the main flow. What was that ? HMmmm SATAY sauce. The smell confirm the suspection. We are laughting but we cant let this be the last action. SATAY MEN is driving back to the enemies bus, he can t see very good but enough to spread a coke or whatever it was on the window. We pass the bus. The other team is hiding. Our window is full of Satay sauce. We simulate our escape. But stoped. We need a revanche, we need to win this war. Everybody is laughting in the car, we are searching for something big. Suddently Jamies voice....We should take plant dust and put it on the wet window. Mike, Nelie and I get out of the car. I m at the lodge. Julie and Mike hide in the bush. SATAY MAN go for a ride to the bus. And the other bus escape, they drive directly to the embuscade, we are waiting, but wich bus is the good one. Its dark and the only thing we see are the lights of the buses. They are approaching but witch car is it. A voice, its SatayMan, he tell us to go for the 1 car. In front of me the formidable spectacle begin, with power and precision, Mike and Julie spray their dust on the window. I m torturate of laughting, they couldn t have do it better . The result can be seen directly. The driver open his window and with a 10 km/h drive with the head out of the window. Impossible to see through. Fantastic action. We are pissed of laughthing. Impossible to stop. But Jamie tell us how you can have such an ID.
Answer: Turn the TV on and look at JACKASSSSS.

Welldone.
We have a break to the resort, with a fantastic tourguide from SATAYMAN. As funny as the rest of the expedition. Then we go for the bush and a place far away from any resort. The bus stop. Its dark. The star roaf will be ours. First mission, finding wood. Everybody participate. The team is great. But something stay in my mind. Well more or less, a story, banal but perverse.
A man enter in a bar, he ask for a glass of water, the barman look at him and put a gun on him. The first man turn back without what he asked for, he is happy and leave the room.
Why ? (answer in 2 articles)


Can you imagine sleeping with no answer to this question ? Well maybie its easier with no people that snorr (ronfler ? Comment on ecrit ca en anglais ?). Everybody arround the fire sleep. We don t have tent but Swags, a kind of big sleeping bag with a mattress inside. Its cold outside.
Know everybody is sleeping. I cant. I m not tired. I have a walk, the moon shine...Then when I come back 3 people are snorring, I keep out of the group, about 15 meters, the fire don t burn anymore. I will stay a long time awake, looking at the stars...then my eyelid fall and the next thing I remember is that they open on the next morning. Time to attack a new journey.

back to japan journalfotoindex