El Calafate Gaucho 14.february.2004

Ushuaia, the end of the world seen from the sea.

The patagonian population is small and very dispersed, no chance for hitchhiking because the distance are very big and the car very rare. When you travel allong this huge region you can t find something disturbing the horizon line. No building. No pollution. Allong the sandroads some guanacos, eagle. Middle of hectare of privats land you find some ranch, that produce good meet. Suddenly a city. El Calafate. A city of tourist, tourist leaving and gauchos.
If you re lucky you can meet two of them. The one is big, part of a gangster maffiosi organisation his head is 30 000 $ pesos payed Dead or Alived. His name GiogoEastwood, If you meet him just run or make your last pray.
The second guy is always the first you see. But its the second guy. A german looking guy with Italiano-Spanico-German blood. Seems very sympatic but when you see his shadow you know thats a very dangerous guy. A kind of Gollum to DarkWaddor mixture with an angel shape. Luky-Freddy-Luke. Dead or Alive 0,40 $ , yes yes you heard it 40 centavos. You want them...? You will pay with your live... ;-}
The last time we saw them was in El Calafate. They tried to galop with this horses. But was not an easy thing because the Giorgo s horse follow Freddy s one. Stupid horses? But Freddy find a way: not without consequence...."my balls...aaarrrg ;-P "
TV click me! 2.93 MB

After this ride, the guys took a kind of paraguayan tea cold "Mate" in the ranch. One man served to all the guest and the drink is share with all the people in the same cope. Arround them , some puma fell are pined on the wall, the house is mostly made with wood. Outside up to 70 horses, for the gringos or for the elevage (?).
On the night the fiesta for the 127 birthday of I don t know realy what start. Every gaucho is here. Some of them are up to 10 years old and already have they horse. They stay in a pround position and run all arround the field. The sun goes down. The fire to make the meat is allready on. Then the music starts, sounds sad but it has a lot of funny stories.
One of this is the story of a Gaucho whos searching a place to drink and one to sleep. He don t has to much money, just a guitar. Somebody tell him about this place, where its cheap to drink and to sleep. Its over there, the house with the red and blue light. The man enter to this little dusty and dark place. He order something to drink, and soon a woman come to him. They have a conversation, he tell about his life and she offer him a place to stay this night. He follow her in her bed and ask for her name "Rogerio" is my name. AAHHHH, he leave the bed but the story continue. An other woman come to him. After few minutes she offer him a place to stay this night. Hmmm, okay but what s your name? I m Tino but for you I can be Tina :-O No chance. Since this time he always ask the name and the ID of a woman before anything else....All this songs are little stories, simple one but heard very melancolic and trist.
Sometimes the singer just says few words the guitar in the other hand and all the audience sing together a sad refrain. It s nice.
Here some samples:
TV click me! 3.25 MB
TV click me! 2.49 MB
The fiesta ends quite, with a fireworks and the "color de esperanza" song. Laura told me that this song was played after the crises in Argentina. A cry of hope.

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